Concrete Melancholia: The Subtle Beauty of Prešov's Soviet Architecture

A quaint town in Eastern Slovakia, boasting a small yet intriguing city center that unveils concrete Prešov Soviet architecture history. Located just a half-hour drive from the second-largest city in Slovakia, most of the concrete structures are concentrated in the heart of Prešov. Unlike the larger city nearby, there’s no need to spend the entire day traversing from one district to another to experience these concrete landmarks. This is particularly true if you have an interest in residential blocks. Finding such structures in the old town is a rarity.

Alexander Duchnovič Park

A mere 12-minute stroll from St. Nicholas Cathedral leads you to a park that goes alongside the Torysa River. This location provides scenic views of the river, graffiti-adorned walls, and a statue honoring Alexander Duchnovič, a priest and poet of Ruthenian origin. On the opposite bank, in the other direction, you’ll discover a spot featuring a Cross monument and a few benches. 

Faculty of Arts

The second-oldest Faculty of Arts in Slovakia established half a century ago, features a remarkable main gate with a wide sculpture protruding from the ceiling. Situated near the aforementioned park, it’s approximately a 25-minute walk from the train station. Scattered throughout the area are various statues. A brief stroll across the recently reconstructed green-colored bridge leads to another Prešov Soviet architecture spot – the Ice Arena, constructed in 1967. The light green structure, shaped like a saddle, might be somewhat challenging to spot behind tall trees during the summer months.

Old town monuments

The park adjacent to St. Nicholas Cathedral not only features the Neptune fountain but also reveals additional concrete structures. Such as an aged bench adorned with animal sculptures on both sides.

Another significant monument is the “Pamätník Osloboditeľom,” constructed in 1945. This monument honors the Red Army for liberating the town from the German-fascist invasion.

Wedding Hall

Many people might overlook the charming spot right next to the old prison on Jarková Street. A substantial concrete structure extends over the main door, displaying the name of the place. The interior still exudes the vintage Soviet atmosphere, adorned with predominantly red, blue, grey, and white colors. Unfortunately, most modern couples may choose to avoid it, as it does not align with current expectations.

The hall, built between 1977-1979 and designed by architect Ľubomír Brezina, who currently resides in Canada, has faced proposals for a major reconstruction. This is not only due to public dislike of its visual aesthetics. From a technical perspective, there are currently no provisions for accommodating people with disabilities.

Peace square

This location is quite prominent and was originally known as Lenin Square. Likely the most significant reminder of the socialist era in Eastern Slovakia. The central feature is the singing fountain, which occupies a considerable portion of the square. I cannot confirm if the fountain is currently operational, as the pictures were taken in January 2024.

During my last visit approximately 20 years ago in the summertime, the fountain was active, and I often encountered Romani individuals who were interested in engaging in conversation. Some of the buildings in this area are now utilized as offices.

Non-Soviet but concrete

Additional stops on the Prešov Soviet Architecture route, though not directly associated with that era, may include the Vodárenska Veža tower. Open daily until 9 pm. This 29-meter-tall structure offers captivating views of the town and was constructed in the first half of the 20th century.

In a surprising juxtaposition, some contemporary architecture in the town bears a resemblance to certain old brutalist designs. One noteworthy example is the cemetery, receiving acclaim from abroad. In 2021, the cemetery earned a nomination for the European Union Prize for Contemporary Architecture – Mies Van Der Rohe. According to Macejko, one of the leading architects, the primary goal was not only to create a final resting place but also to establish a park that was lacking in the neighborhood.

After exploring the intriguing Soviet architecture of Prešov, you can continue your journey into the city’s historical depths by visiting the mesmerizing Baroque Calvary Complex.